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The composition analysis: What is inside the Bioderma Sébium Global acne cream

Does it cope with inflammation as well as it promises

In the heading "the composition analysis", I analyze the composition of popular products. In the new issue is the face cream Bioderma Sebium Global for oily and combination skin.

Bioderma Sébium Global


Aqua/Water/Eau, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Citric Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Zinc Gluconate, Salicylic Acid, Arachidyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Silica, Xanthan Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Squalane, Bakuchiol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Xylitol, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Fructooligosaccharides, Mannitol, Propyl Gallate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Rhamnose, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Fragrance (Parfum). [BI 673]

Sébium is a popular anti-acne line of Bioderma pharmacy cosmetics. Sébium Global cream is positioned as an intensive care that works out the skin condition in all directions. The list of promises includes normalization of the skin fat composition, deep hydration, rejuvenation and elimination of acne and comedones. We look into the composition and check whether one cream can really solve so many problems.


Aqua, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Silica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Parfum.

The texture of the cream Bioderma Sébium Global is more like a dense serum, gel, quickly absorbed, but it leaves on the skin a kind of smooth film that locks moisture. For such a specific and rare texture, an impressive list of solvents, emulsifiers and structure-forming agents are responsible. However, many of them also serve as moisturizers, so you can not be afraid of a long list of seemingly "useless" components for the skin.

After the Aqua, which in most cases is the first, follows the emolent C12-13 Alkyl Lactate. It has some lactic acid properties ( exfoliation and hydration), is able to soothe irritations, so it is suitable for even atopic and sensitive skin. In the fourth place of the composition is Dipropylen Glycol, the standard solvent and viscosity formula regulator, which also has moisturizing properties. Cyclopentasiloxane is the silicone, together with Dimethicone, which is lower in the ingredients list, forms a waterproof protective barrier on the skin and gives the silkiness and smoothness after application and absorption.

Sodium hydroxide is an alkaline substance that is added to cosmetics to regulate pH. This is especially important for cosmetic formulas with acids that can be aggressive to the skin if the pH is too low. After sodium hydroxide comes glycerine is a well-known and inexpensive solvent that has repeatedly proven its moisturizing properties.

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is a component that is responsible for the silky cream texture, and also absorbs excess sebum and mattifies the skin.

Further in the composition, we see ingredients that are mainly responsible for the tactile properties of the cream and its stability. Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol are fatty alcohols, so they will not dry the skin. They serve as stabilizers and thickeners. The same functions are performed by all subsequent components of the base, so we will not stop on them, otherwise you will die of boredom.

However, it is necessary to mention Parfum as it is the fragrance. Bioderma brand among the advantages of its product indicates "light fragrance". Its components are not listed, but if you do not tolerate to odors, you should be warned that the fragrance in Sebium Global is not delicate.

Active components

Citric Acid, Zinc Gluconate, Salicylic Acid, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Fructo Oligosaccharides, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Bakuchiol, Squalane

The main acid in the formula is salicylic acid — it works against inflammation and cleanses the pores, affects the main causes of acne, including the activity of C. acnes bacteria. Citric Acid is AHA-acid, which exfoliates dead skin cells from the skin surface, but is usually used in cosmetics as a pH regulator. Here it is at the very beginning of the recipe in large amount and it is very active.

Zinc gluconate is the zinc salt of gluconic acid. This component is also effective in working with inflammation: studies show that zinc gluconate reduces their number.

Also among the actives there is a bakuchiol, which is   botanical psoralen liminality extract. Bakuchiol is often called "vegetable retinol", it can be effective in working with surface wrinkles, pigmentation, acne. At the same time, bakuchiol, unlike retinol, does not cause irritation. This formula does not seem to contain this component: it works in higher concentrations than retinol, and should be higher on the list.

Slightly less "star" components of the composition are prebiotics (Fructooligosaccharides), ginkgo biloba leaf extract, rhamnose and glycyrrhetinic acid. All of them have a calming effect, and soften the effect of active acids.

Mannitol and squalane are added to moisturize and soften the skin, and xylitol strengthens the protective barrier and works as a prebiotic, supporting the health of the skin's microbiome.

Technologist's comment

First of all, it is a good and working product. The composition is large, there are a lot of emulsifiers, stabilizers, a lot of composite actives (for example, laminaria ochroleuca extract is dissolved in Caprylic Capric triglyceride). The developers needed to stabilize the formula with a high percentage of salicylic acid, zinc salt and citric acid and at the same time maintain the usual consumer properties of the cosmetic product: silkiness, smoothness and matte finish.

The cream dries, mattifies, and normally regulates the work of the sebaceous glands due to salicylic acid. It is designed to work with acne and smooth the skin texture, but I would not bet on intensive moisturizing and skin rejuvenation.

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