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The composition analysis: What's inside the luxury La Mer MOISTURIZER

And is it worth the money

IN THE HEADING "THE COMPOSITION ANALYSIS", I analyse the composition of popular products. Crème de La Mer moisturizer is in the new issue.


Algae (Seaweed) Extract, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Powder, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Sulfate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Water, Beta-Carotene, Decyl Oleate, Aluminum Distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium Stearate, Panthenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol Denat., Fragrance.

There are many legends surrounding the La Mer brand and their main product, the classic Crème de La Mer. For example, there is a theory that the brand's founder, astrophysicist Max Huber, was involved in NASA development. A year ago, a Chinese blogger sued La Mer for false promises: Chinese version of the advertising stated that they are able to restore skin after burns and scars.

The main discussion subject is of course the cream cost. Crème de La Mer now called a very expensive vaseline, now longrides write about the unique and expensive making process. Today we will try to put an end to the eternal arguments about whether the cream is worth your money.

Basic composition

Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Water, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Alcohol Denat, Magnesium Sulfate, Sodium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Paraffin, Aluminum Distearate, Fragrance.

The cream is based on water, mineral oil, petrolatum and glycerin. For this, the Crème de La Mer is often called an expensive Nivea blue "puck" dyad. Indeed, the base of mineral oil and vaseline can be found in more affordable moisturizers. The main thing is not to sin on the components reputation as in the end, they retain moisture in the skin well.

The dreadful word Isohexadecane a safe synthetic emollient is hidden. It has a dry, powdery texture, so it is often put in creams for combination skin. Other emollients in the composition such as Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol and lanolin alcohol make the texture of the cream so smooth and help to spread it easily on the skin surface.

Microcrystalline wax, magnesium sulphate and paraffin are responsible for the cream dense texture formation and Aluminum Distearate — for the emulsion stabilization. Citric Acid regulates pH, and Alcohol Denat serves as a solvent for active substances and extracts. Zinc gluconate, a synthetic glucose product is used as a preservative.

The Miracle Broth

Algae (Seaweed) Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, Tocopheryl Succinate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Niacin, Potassium Sorbate, Cyanocobalamin.

The most popular of all La Mer remedies is Miracle Broth, or "magic broth". This is a mixture of seaweed, calcium, magnesium, vitamins B3 and B12, plant seed extracts and their ground powder, as well as citrus, eucalyptus, wheat germ, alfalfa and sunflower oils. The "magic" it was called for the way these components were obtained. The brand representatives claim that the various extracts in the composition are not just extracts, as in other creams, but products of biofermentation. La Mer focuses on bio-fermented components as it is assumed that they are more powerful and active. But it is difficult to say whether it works.

There is a lot of esotericism surrounding the Miracle Broth creation. It is known that Estée Lauder hired a medium to contact the spirit of the formula creator, the deceased Max Huber, and ask him for the recipe. If you believe this legend, it was just after such a spiritistic session that lab workers began to play special "music" to the fermenting broth. The soundtrack consists of recordings of  previous broth batches bubbling . La Mer believes that sound waves contribute to the higher activity of Miracle Broth components. In addition, during the fermentation, together with musical accompaniment, a special installation with pulsating light is turned on in the room.

The rest of the ingredients

Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Stearate, Beta-Carotene, Panthenol, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame), Seed Powder, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate.

In addition to the "magic broth", there are several other active components in the composition. The most effective of them from the point of the evidence base is panthenol. It soothes the skin and relieves irritation. And Magnesium Stearate absorbs sebum, so it can be useful for oily skin owners.

Beta-carotene is sometimes added to cosmetics as an antioxidant, but there are no studies on its effect on the skin when applied externally. There is one paper about the skin ability to convert beta-carotene into retinol, but it deals with other concentrations of this substance. Sodium Benzoate is a preservative, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate is a standard aromatic composition. People with a cosmetic perfumes sensitivity should use the product with caution.

The opinion of a technologist

Classic "foreign" old school cream: a lot of things, but it is unclear for what. This is an example of a reverse emulsion, that's why it is so dense. There are a lot of complexes (therefore such a large composition) that copy each other according to their properties. I would say, from a technological point of view, this is not a modern product, today there is a trend for short effective chemical formulas. Mineral oil and vaseline create a dense base — this will appeal to dry skin, but may annoy owners of oily and combined skin.
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